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VARANASI

Varanasi, the city of Shiva, is one of the holiest cities in India. Hindu pilgrims come wash away all their sins in the Ganges. Varanasi was previously called Benares and Kashi (city of life) and has always been an auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers moksha-liberation from the cycle of birth and death. The city is the beating heart of the Hindu universe, a crossing place between the physical and spiritual worlds, and the Ganges is viewed as a river of salvation, an everlasting, ever flowingdew symbol of hope to past, present and future generations. The magical but sometimes overwhelming city is where the most intimate rituals of life and death take place in public on the city’s famous ghats. The accessibility to the practices of an ancient but still living religious tradition is what captivates many visitors.

The stunningly exquisite temples of Khajuraho are deservedly one of India’s major attractions. These works of architectural and sculptural genius have a historic and poetic resonance that immediately captures the imagination. You won’t find finer temple arts anywhere in the world.

Gawlior (Madhya Pradesh) is a small Uttar Pradesh incursion into northern Madhya Pradesh. While Jhansi has played a colourful role in Indian history, it’s more a transit point for visitors on their way to more attractive Orchha, only 18km away, and Khajuraho. There’s a fort here, not as colossal as Gawlior’s but equally strong. That, plus Jhansi has the nearest ATM and Internet café, which makes it worthwhile day out from Orchha. Travelers needing to stay here will find a strip of reasonable hotels on Shivpuri Rd

Once the capital city of the Bundelas, Orchha (Hidden Place) is now just a few streets within a wonderful complex of well-preserved palaces and temples. The picture book setting of spires and domes breaks the skyline in every direction. Refreshingly free of touts, Orchha’s peaceful beauty makes for a very relaxing place to stay.